There is armour, an insect-like carapace; and there is drapery, a second, looser skin. Any garment can be placed somewhere along the gradient between the two. The carapace is stiff; it may have curves, but they will not be caused by the fabric's resting passively on the body's surface. A modern leader-of-the-nation's lounge suit, Queen Elizabeth I's pearl-embroidered dresses, the padded jackets and breeches of her courtiers - all these have more carapace-like, shape-imposing qualities than shape-taking ones. At the other extreme are flowing, liquid garments. Think of Nike adjusting her sandal or the Victory of Samothrace, of shifts and nightgowns, of bits of back, breast or shoulder seen through transparent fabrics which follow the body as it moves.

LRB 21 August 2003 | PDF Download