Just outside Durban lies the vast black squatter camp of Inanda, whose huddling shacks house half a million people or more - the only way to perform a census is to take an aerial photograph and allow for six people per shack. On Inanda's eastern edge lies the historic Gandhi Settlement, founded by the Mahatma before he set off to lead the struggle against the British in India. Ninety per cent of South Africa's one million Indians live in Natal, more than half of them in Durban, and the community is intensely proud of having produced the man who launched India's independence. The Settlement itself became a focus of the Gandhian movement and a place of pilgrimage. It was also a place of reflection and refuge: during the hardest apartheid years this was where radicals of every stripe would retire for workshops and seminars or, on occasion, for Gandhian fasts of protest against the apartheid laws. Rick Turner and Steve Biko used to hold weekend retreats there, as did many of the activists who later built the trade union movement.

LRB 6 January 1994 | PDF Download